古镇寻踪

Tracing the ancient town

一场秋雨过后,我踏上了前往江南古镇的旅程。这是一座鲜为人知的小镇,不像周庄、乌镇那样游人如织,却保留着最原汁原味的水乡风貌。

After a fall rain, I embarked on a journey to an ancient town in Jiangnan. This is a little-known town, unlike Zhouzhuang and Wuzhen which are bustling with tourists, yet it retains the most authentic water town charm.

车子在蜿蜒的乡间小路上行驶了近两小时,才抵达目的地。

The vehicle meandered along the countryside road for nearly two hours before reaching the destination.

初见古镇,我不禁屏住了呼吸——青石板铺就的小路两旁,是保存完好的明清建筑,斑驳的墙壁上爬满了绿色的藤蔓,仿佛为这些古老的房屋披上了一层神秘的面纱。

Upon my first sight of the ancient town, I couldn’t help but hold my breath—the cobblestone paths were flanked by well-preserved Ming and Qing architecture, with green vines climbing over the weathered walls, as if draping a layer of mysterious veils over these old houses.

我漫步在幽深的巷子里,不时能听见里弄深处传来的麻将声或是老人的闲聊声。与喧嚣的都市截然不同,这里的时光仿佛被刻意放慢。

I strolled through the deep alleys, occasionally hearing the sound of mahjong or the chatter of elderly people from within the lanes. In stark contrast to the bustling city, time here seemed deliberately slowed down.

一位白发苍苍的老人坐在家门口的藤椅上,悠闲地抽着旱烟。看到我这个外地来客,他热情地招呼我去他家喝茶。

An elderly man with white hair sat on a wicker chair at his doorstep, leisurely smoking a pipe. Upon seeing me, an outsider, he warmly invited me in to drink tea.

推门而入,我惊讶地发现这座看似普通的民居内部别有洞天。天井中央,一棵百年老梅傲然挺立;厅堂里陈设着精美的红木家具,墙上挂着字画和老照片。

As I pushed the door open, I was surprised to discover that this seemingly ordinary residence held a hidden treasure inside. In the center of the courtyard stood a century-old plum tree, proudly upright; the hall was furnished with exquisite rosewood furniture, and the walls were hung with calligraphy, paintings, and old photographs.

老人姓董,是这镇上为数不多仍居住在祖宅里的原住民。他告诉我,这座宅子已有三百多年历史,经历了太平天国运动和抗日战争,虽几经损毁,但主体结构依然坚固如初。

The old man, surnamed Dong, is one of the few original residents still living in his ancestral home in this town. He told me that this residence has a history of over three hundred years, having endured the Taiping Rebellion and the War of Resistance against Japan. Despite suffering damage, the main structure remains solid as ever.

沏上一壶碧螺春,老人开始讲述这座古镇的往事。原来在明清时期,这里是远近闻名的丝绸集散地,镇上的富商把持着通往苏州、杭州的水路贸易,财源广进。

After brewing a pot of Biluochun tea, the old man began to recount the history of this ancient town. It turned out that during the Ming and Qing dynasties, this was a well-known silk distribution center where wealthy merchants controlled the waterway trade to Suzhou and Hangzhou, thus prospering greatly.

他指着厅堂的横梁,向我展示了几处精细的木雕,那是当年请江南最著名的工匠花重金打造的。

He pointed to the beams of the hall and showed me several exquisite wood carvings, crafted at great expense by the most famous artisans from Jiangnan at that time.

茶过三巡,老人起身从一个上了锁的柜子里取出一本发黄的册子,那是他祖上留下的账本,记录了百年前丝绸贸易的兴衰起伏。

After three rounds of tea, the old man rose and retrieved a yellowed ledger from a locked cabinet; it was an account book left by his ancestors, detailing the rise and fall of the silk trade from a century ago.

我小心翼翼地翻阅着这部"活历史",仿佛穿越时空,看到了当年商船云集、市井繁华的盛况。

I gingerly leafed through this "living history," as if traveling through time and witnessing the bustling scenes of merchant ships gathering and the vibrant markets of that era.

傍晚时分,老人的孙女从城里回来探望。这位年轻姑娘在上海的一家设计公司工作,周末才会回到古镇。

In the evening, the old man's granddaughter returned from the city to visit. This young woman works at a design company in Shanghai, only coming back to the ancient town on weekends.

她告诉我,现在越来越多年轻人选择离开古镇,去大城市寻找机会。但她始终割舍不下对这片土地的感情,计划有朝一日回来开一家民宿,让更多人了解这座被遗忘的古镇。

She told me that more and more young people are choosing to leave the ancient town for big cities in search of opportunities. Yet she cannot let go of her feelings for this land and plans to return one day to open a guesthouse, allowing more people to understand this forgotten ancient town.

夜幕降临,我告别董老先生一家,沿着河边漫步。月光下的古镇愈发宁静,石桥、流水、老屋构成了一幅如梦如幻的水墨画。

As night fell, I bid farewell to Mr. Dong's family and took a walk along the riverside. The ancient town under the moonlight became increasingly tranquil, with stone bridges, flowing water, and old houses forming a dreamlike ink wash painting.

不远处,几盏灯火透过木格窗洒出温暖的光芒,那是几户仍在古镇坚守的居民。

Not far away, a few lights shone warmly through the wooden windows, belonging to several families still residing in the ancient town.

这一夜,我宿在一家简朴的客栈里,躺在古色古香的床榻上,听着窗外不时传来的蛙鸣虫叫,思绪万千。

That night, I stayed in a simple inn, lying on a bed with an antique style, listening to the occasional croaking of frogs and chirping of insects outside the window, lost in thought.

在飞速发展的现代社会,这样安静祥和的古镇还能存续多久?那些承载着历史和记忆的老宅,又将何去何从?

In this rapidly developing modern society, how long can such a quiet and peaceful ancient town last? What will become of those old houses that carry history and memories?

带着这些未解的问题,我慢慢进入梦乡,梦里依然是那青石板小路和斑驳的老墙。

Carrying these unanswered questions, I slowly drifted into sleep, dreaming of the cobblestone paths and weathered old walls.